1967 Ford Mustang for sale

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Q: 1967 Ford Mustang coupe on sale for $6000?
Is $6000 a good value for a 1967 Ford Mustang coupe? It has a 289 2 barrel V8, automatic tranny, power steering/brakes, it runs/drives great, body/interior are in good condition and it has flowmasters and new exhaust.

A: My first question as always is about rust. On a 67, check the floors under the carpet and under the car for rust. Also check under the carpet by the passengers feet, if it ever had a leaky heater core then some amount of rust will be there on the floor. Check out the trunk area (under the car and in the trunk) look at the METAL, if there is carpet in the trunk or a trunk mat, pull it up and look underneath. Check the frame rails for rust. Open both of the doors and look at the under side of the doors (where water would drain out) and see if there is any rust. The holes in the bottom of the doors often get clogged up with dirt/leaves, etc and do not allow the water to drain out causing the bottom of the doors to rust. The #1 area you want to check for rust is the cowl (the vented area between the windshield and the hood). Vintage mustangs were not properly protected in the cowl area. If the cowl is rusty it is a huge pain to replace the cowl. If you look at the car you can see all of the spot welds that would have to be drilled out to access the cowl, not fun. The easiest way to check if the cowl is leaky is to pour a cup of water into the cowl (between the windshield and the hood). Pour a cup on the drivers side of the cowl and see where it drains out. If the cowl is not rusted out then the water will drain out inside the fender and onto the ground. If the cowl is rusted the water will leak onto the interior floor boards (where your feet would sit if you were driving). Then pour a cup down the passenger side and check the same.

How is the paint? Be cautious if it is a “new” paint job. New paint jobs are often hiding a lot. Look closely all around the car for little bubbles in the paint (even if there is just one or two). Bubbles in the paint can mean that there is rust under that paint.

Pull the dipstick and see how the oil looks. Any seller with half a brain will have put fresh oil in it but check to make sure. Do the same with the tranny fluid. Tell the seller that you would like to take off a valve cover to see how it looks inside. Look to see if there is a lot of sludge built up on the rocker arms, push rods, and on the head itself. Take a peek at the coolant as well.

Does it have 4 wheel drum brakes? Drive at 40 or so and press the brakes like you are coming to a normal stop. While you are pressing the brakes, take your hands off the wheel. Keep your hands right next to the wheel but don’t touch it while you are stopping. Does the car pull to one side while you are stopping?

If the car is a numbers matching (original engine, tranny, rear end) 67 coupe that runs good all around, has good interior, etc and all of the above things check out then I would personally pay maybe $5000 for it. If you know what you are shopping for, you can get a lot for $6000.

Q: where can i find a 1967 ford mustang gt 500 eleanor for sale at a lower price?
the cheapest one i found was $125000 if any one knows were i can find one please reply

A: well that all depends on if you want a real ‘67 Shelby or a remake you can probably find a ‘67 fastback mustang and get the eleanor body kit for it and order a 428 cobra jet from ford and you will be on your way. however and all original Ford Shelby GT500KR can go for over 200k so its your choice

Q: Anyone know of a 1967 Shelby GT 500 ford mustang for sale?

A: check ebay.com, but watch out for fakes..

Q: 1967 Gt500 Elanor Mustang ?
Okay so i was looking online for a mustang to buy .
I came across a ad that said 1967 Ford Mustang Fastback Eleanor GT500 Shelby for sale . The price is $5000 Can . I e-mailed the owner and she said shipping and handling is included in the cost . She only wants to make the deal through ebay . Does this seem like a scam ?

She says the car is in perfect shape and is a 6.7 liter v8
sorry i spelt it wrong eleanor

you never heard of them ? They are just like another brand of mustang , like roush or saleen etc .
they look like this

http://www.fquick.com/images/articles/19381.jpg

and the newer ones look like this

http://media.photobucket.com/image/eleanor%20mustang/A_major_Gamer/Cars/eleanor_conv_01.jpg

A: SCAM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! anytime the seller sells something way to good to be true it normally is. They always say there not around and on a work trip and shippings already paid for is so they will ship it to you. They wont give you the vin number or give you a false one, they wont let you see it cause its “locked” in a crate. Again SCAM!! stay away.

Also REPORT them to ebay and get there account banned.

Q: Classic Ford Mustang Time Commitment?
I’ve been looking to buy a 1964-1967 Mustang. I see several for sale ads stating that the seller no longer has the time to work on the car. How much time should I expect to “work” on the car? What kind of “work” should I expect to do? Thanks!
To clarify, I am not asking how much time I should expect to work on a specific car. My question is how much should I expect to work on a classic Ford Mustang generally to keep it in good shape. I assume that since multiple sellers are selling because they don’t have time to devote to the car, the time commitment would be much more than for my current 2002 model vehicle, which is basically minimal to none. Thanks!

A: Well, it depends on several things:

1.) First, how far do you want to go with the restoration? There is a huge difference in time and money to make a “rough but running” car a “daily driver” vs. a “20-footer” vs. a “true show car.” Depending on the model, there’s a practical limit to what this car is going to be worth (at each of these restoration tiers) when you’re done.

2.) How much rust? If this is surface rust without rot or perforation, a good prep and repaint will do the trick. Pay careful attention to the floorboards (front and rear), the lower lips on the fenders, the lower door edges, the rocker panels and the front and rear fascia under the bumpers. Check underneath, too (exhaust, brake & suspension components & associated mounting points).

3.) Are the engine, transmission and driveline sound? If so, do you intend to keep them stock?

4.) How much work on the inside? Specifically, are the gauges, radio, heater/vent controls, etc. present and working? Glass? Weatherstrips? What needs to be done?

5.) Apart from restoration, how much regular maintenance or mechanical repair needs to be done? Brakes? Wheels/Tires? Craigslist can be your friend for upgraded wheels/tires.

The good news is that, given the popularity of early Mustangs, there are numerous sources for Mustang restoration and performance parts. Start with your local wrecking yard / auto recycler, move on to J C Whitney for general stuff, then to any of the myriad Mustang performance / enthusiast sites on the web.

If you are a decent mechanic and can do paint prep properly, you can cut your costs considerably on a project like this. Years ago, I bought and restored a ‘63 Falcon (from “rough but running” to “20-footer” status) with my father-in-law. It took 2 years of on-and-off weekend work, lots of trips to the wrecking yard and research in mail-order catalogs and about $3,000, but it was one of the best things we’ve ever done together.

Good luck!

RESPONSE TO YOUR FOLLOW-UP:

I suspect your sellers are referring to the restoration “work” still to be done, rather than routine maintenance. Following restoration, these cars are really pretty trouble-free. Here’s a few thoughts, based on my own experiences (see end of my original post above):

You will need to do oil and filter changes every 3,000 miles (which, BTW, you ought to be doing on your 2002 model as well – check the “harsh conditions” service interval recommendations – you’re likely unwittingly driving under “harsh conditions” as defined).

Because you’re working with a carbureted / mechanical ignition system on a 64-67, you will need more frequent and extensive tune-ups than with fuel injection and electronic ignition – including periodic adjustment / replacement of plugs, points, condenser and replacement of cap and rotor – every second year or so. You can mitigate this by retrofitting an aftermarket electronic ignition system – many offerings are available for the Mustang.

Some suspension components which are “factory sealed” or not serviceable on newer models have zerk fittings and are meant to be serviced as part of routine oil changes / lubes.

Older transmissions, power steering pumps/boxes, water pumps, alternators, etc. don’t really require more service by design, but you should make an effort keep fluids changed and things adjusted in view of the age of these components.

This is the sort of required / preventive maintenance you’d expect with any vehicle of this age, though.

Again, good luck! Sounds like a fun project!

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